Hungary [antikvár]

I I 0 I N r K o I) U C I N G HUNGARY H DISCOVERING HUNGARY way east, forming natural frontiers. The Great Plain, a vast swathe of flat grassland, covers a third of the country, and the gentle hills and vineyards of Transdanubia, in the west, are split in two by Lake Balaton. Below is an overview of the Northern Highlands arc their Buda's oid Town Haii highlights of each region. ungary can be divided into six regions, each one defined as niLich by landscape as by history. 'I'he capital, liudapesi, is at heart of the Danube Bend and further north are the castle towns that once guarded that very bend. The Onion dome. TO I I Cruise boats gliding up and down the Danube river, Budapest BUDAPEST • Enchanting Castle District • Majestic architecture • Fascinating museums Hungary's capital is renowned for its size, imperial elegance and modem exuberance. Until 1873, Budapest was two separate cities: Buda, the regal centre on the Danube's west bank, and Pest, the commercial capital on the east bank. The two cities retain their uniqueness today. Buda is a mellow, relaxing place, especially in the Castle District CseePP52-65J where cars are few and history is visible on every corner. Two days are needed to explore the area, including the National Gallery (seepp58-9), Mátyás Church (see p/)62-3J and the streets of old Buda. North of the Castle District is the Roman remains of Aquincum ísee pl 10), and to the south is the town of Tabán (seep74) and Gellért Hill with its magnificent Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex (seepp 70- 71). Leave time to visit the Buda Hills (seeplll), a green oa.sis where natural caves, a nature reserve and steam trains vie for attention. Pest can be hot and overcrowded in the summer, but its riches outweigh such bothers. The Hungarian National Museum (seepp98-9) and the Ethnographical Museum (see pp82) are full of wonderful treasures. Its Opera House (see pp88-9) is one of the most ostentatious in Europe, and its grandiose Parliament (seepp80-81) is a must-see. Allow two days to do central Pest justice, and another one to enjoy its opportunities for repose in Városliget (see pW7X the city's tranquil park. The dense woodland of Bakony Forest, Northern Transdanubia AROUND BUDAPEST • Danube cruises • Charming Szentendre • Palaces and ruined castles The most serene way to arrive in any of the historic towns along the Danube Bend is by boat from Budapest. Perfect for a day out is Esztergom (seeppl42~5), with its striking basilica towering above the Danube, while the ruined castle at Visegrád (seepl41) and the quiet splendour of Vác (see pl S3) are also worth a trip. Szentendre (see pp 142-5), with its Baroque architecture and maze of cobblestoned streets is both a visitor's and artist's delight. The enchanting Royal Palace at Gödöllő (seeppl34-5), the botanical gardens of Vácrátót (seepi33), and the nature reserve at Ócsa (see pl32) should not be missed. NORTHERN TRANSDANUBIA • Pannonhalma Abbey • Medieval Sopron • Forests, vineyards and spas Stretching from Budapest to the Austrian border. Northern Transdanubia possesses many delights for the visitor. Few places in Hungary come close to matching the sombre elegance of Pannonhalma Abbey (seeppl 76- 7), a UNESCO Worid Heritage Site. Sopron (seeppl68-9) has a fine medieval old town, and despite Austrian influences remains proudly Hungarian. Fertő-Hanság National Park