FOREWORDIt is nearly fifty years since Tenzing and I first set foot on the summit of Mount Everest and since then a huge number of books have been published about the mountain. But Doctor on Everest, written by Dr. Kenneth Kamler, is very different. It describes in great detail the life of one of the most important members of any great challengethe expedition doctor who is so firequently overlooked while attention is focussed on the members of the climbing team aiming for the summit.We are all aware that exploration and climbing have changed...
FOREWORDIt is nearly fifty years since Tenzing and I first set foot on the summit of Mount Everest and since then a huge number of books have been published about the mountain. But Doctor on Everest, written by Dr. Kenneth Kamler, is very different. It describes in great detail the life of one of the most important members of any great challengethe expedition doctor who is so firequently overlooked while attention is focussed on the members of the climbing team aiming for the summit.We are all aware that exploration and climbing have changed dramatically over the past fifty years. In 1953 when we climbed Everest we were fit and strongly motivated but our equipment and food was rather limited. Before us we had a great psychological barrierwe didn't know if it was humanly possible to reach the summit of Everest and survive. This barrier disappeared when Tenzing and I stepped safely on the top of the world.The modern explorer has greater technical ability and far better equipment. He is able to tackle much harder challenges, such as more dangerous routes and facing climbs and ascents without oxygen. By achieving these more difficult approaches he gains the same satisfaction that we felt in being the first to the summit.There have been many changes in other ways too. By contributing a large sum of money a relatively inexperienced climber can be conducted by a guide high up the mountain and even to the summit itself. The regular routes are tamed with thousands of meters of fixed rope and scores of aluminum ladders. But Everest remains a difficult and
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