Budos vaikai: tibetieciai, ladakieciai-zanskarieciai, mustangieciai, dolpieciai [antikvár]

Lietuviskasis Kristus ír Tibeto Dievai taip noréjo ir leido -OS Jausesis kartus (1989, 1991, 1993, 1994, 1997, 1998) daiig fotografavau keliaudamas po Istoritii bei Mazqji Tihetci Indijoje (Ladakq-Zansiiarq), Nepale esancius Mustangq ir Dolpo. Po tas víetas, kurgimé Buda Lumbini (Nepale) ir kur jo protas nusvito Biidhgaya (Indijoje), kur sunkici trenitinio daliq Dharamsalos mieste, Siaurés Indijoje, kencia XIVDalai Lama, Tibeto karalius, o su Juo ~ daugiau nei simtas tükstan-ciii tautieciif. Kaip sunkiai patekau { Vakaru Tibetet ir fotografavau ten, kur apie sventq Kailaso kalnet begaliniam aukstyje istvermingom sielom ir künais melsdamies matuoja uolétq takq senös kultüros, izepaprastos dvasios, nors ir okupuotl, bet isdi-düs Tibeto Piligrimai, mano Broliat. Sunkiame piligrimiskame kely, Visa Tibete bütci laikq mane su metu, dveju ar trejn mazy-liais, storais panciais apsuktais ant motinos, o kartais ir ant senelio nugaros, irju tévais siejo meilé Dievui, Laisvei ir Tiesai. Si, pavetgtam pati svenciausia, Meilé kaip Kaiba tarp müsit liejos visq sunktf ir sykiu taip lengvq keliq, kuris driehósi virs debesu. Kur, man atrodé, Dievo rankos taip ani!Karta as maciau, ir tai nebuvo sapnas, kaip prisédus tarp uolu pietums ir vaigant garsiqfa Tibeto campcf - miitus, smulkiai akmens gimomis sumaltus, mazyliaijuos tiesiog ran-kelémis habino is nedideliu maiseliu ir kiso i bumytes (gal bu-vo pasibaigus arbata, kad jon ibertu?). Taigi ne véjas, o genfju demonii nematoma jéga supüsdavo tuos baltus társi sniegas miitus i alkanu pauksciuku snapelius, tartum Mos suentyklos stogo pakrasty prilipusiam lizde isziotus, dabargi- i maziyti tibetieciu bumeles. Darbstüs démonai susiuodavo tas miltip dulkes nuojau ne kartq lopyto sulopyto grubaus drabuzio. Po sitokiu skalsiif pietu vist kartu pakildavom, ir vélei risdavos po kojoviis takeiis ligipat juodos tamsos, kai tekdavo ieskoti kieto guito prie sventyklos sienos.Ne pirma kartq dirbau Tibete, kelintas ménuo jau manasis kelias vinguriavo nuo vieno üienuolyno prie kitu, senii kaip Brahmaputros upé, mtostabiu sventykhi. Is mazo kaimo ar didesnio, prie tyliai stovinciit viena salia kitos (ir tai svarbi senajam Tibete taisyklé) dvieju rudu arjuodu brezentu apvilktu, prigludusiu prie zemés jurtu, prie pat upelio sono. Kadangi is labai toU tie upiu upeliuku sléniai- taiytum miizinisko kalno gilios raukslés, aspraminiau klajoklius zmonémis is nido kalno rauksiiii gyvosios atminties.Plokstikalnio Tibeto rauksliu zmonés! Ir siandien dar girdziu nezemiskqjq jüsif snekcf, sauiei nusileidus baubiancius jakus ir ilgavilnes, plonai mekenancias ozkas. Ten buvus iengva prisimint, kaip krenta i pintines moteru, vaiku, seneliu renka-mas isdziiwQS méslas gyvuUit, kim paliko pries kelias dienas praéjusi banda. Sis méslas - beveik vienintelis kalnuos ugnies bei silumos saltinis. Dar kartais sunkiai randamos sustabaréje zolés, krümoksniti sakos, saknys ar stiebai.Jeigu turéciau Budos galicf pasikelt aukstai virs sitos zemés vielos, regéciau nuostabu Tibeto kunq, fantastiskom gyvybés raukslém isdabintq, kűri kas diena siutpiai pjausto raudona kinii karo masina Paulius NORMANTAS13'!>; II'The Ulhiiíluiciii Chris! and tbc Gods of'I'ihel luaiilad and allowed this- six limes now (19S9. 1991. 1993, 1994, 1997. 1998) 1 have lakén manypholographs while Iraueling aronnd Historical Tihel. Little Tibet in India (Ladakh-Zauskar), and Mustang and Dolpo in Nepal Awtmd those places where Buddha was honi (Lumhini. Nepal), and ivhere he achieved enlightenment (Biiddh Gaya, India), and in Ihe city of Dharamsala. North India, where the 14th Dalai Unna. the king of Tibet, suffers the hard fate of an exile along ivHb more than a hundred thousand of His people. With great difficuhy 1 reached and photographed West Tihel. Here around the infinitely high holy Mount Kailash the Pilgrims of Tihel. my Brotheis, wllh steadfast soids and bodies prayerfully follow the rock-stmim path of their andettí cultu re. Although their coun-try is under occupation, they show an extraordinary^ spirit and remain pmud. During my diffictdt pilgrimage I was connected to one- or two- or three-year-olds bound tvilh thick hands to a mother's or sometimes even a grandfather's hack, connected to the infants and their parents by a love of God, Freedom, and Truth. This love, most holy to the enslaved, floiued like a language among us during the tvhole difficult yet so easy road, which extended ahove the clouds. Where, it seemed to me, the hands of God tvere so dose!Once, silting down among rocks to eat the tnnowned ribetan tsampa (harley flour finely ground with a millstone), I saw, and this tvas not a dream, young children simply scoop the flour from a small hag and put it into their tiny mouths (perhaps there tvas no tea left to moisten the food). Not the wind hut the invisible power of good demons would hlow that snoto-White flour into the open heaks of hungry little birds in a nest perched on the roof edge of an ancient temple- and this time into the mouths of little Tibetans. Those industrious demonswould cleanly sweep up that flour dttst from coarse clothes patched Innumerable tunes. After a nottrishing dinner we would all rise together and once again a path trould unroll heneath our feet until utter darkness lichen ire had to search for a hard resting place near a temple trailNot for the fhst time in Tibet, for a feiv months my path meandered from one monastery to another to remarkable temples as old as the Brahmaputra Hirer From a small village or a laiger one to tivo yurts silently standing beside each other (an important rule in old Tihel), covered In hiack or brown tarpaulin and stretched close to the ground right on the edge of a small river. Because from a great distance those banks of the rivulets appeared to he the deep wrinkles of a giant mountain, I called the nomads "people from the living ntemoiy of the hivtvn mountain's tvrlnkles."People of Ihe Tihelan plaleau's wrinkles! I slill hear your unearthly speech, and after sunset the hellotving yaks and thinly hleating long-haired goats. Having heen there it is easy 10 recall how dried animal dung, left by a herd passing hy a few days previously, falls into the baskets of the tvomen, childivn, and old people ivho collect it. TIjIs dung Is almost the sole source of fire and heat In the mountains. And sometimes dried gras.<;es and the branches, roots, orslalks of shnths- all difficult toftnd.Ifl had the power of Buddha to lise high ahove this place on earth. 1 tvould heboid the tvondeiful Ixxly of Tihel, adorned with the fantastic wrinkles of life, a body brutally !^lashed each day by Ihe Chinese red ivar machine Pauliiis NOmiANTAS